The Case for Hand Planes
In an age of powered jointers and sanders, hand planes remain indispensable in a well-rounded workshop. They can flatten a surface, refine a joint, chamfer an edge, or remove a whisker of material with precision no machine can match. The challenge for beginners is navigating the seemingly endless variety of plane types and sizes.
This guide cuts through the confusion and helps you understand which planes offer the most value and why.
How Hand Planes Are Categorized
Hand planes are generally grouped by their number (in the Stanley/Bailey numbering system), their function, and their sole length. Longer soles bridge low spots and flatten boards; shorter soles follow curves and clean up end grain.
The Essential Bench Planes
No. 4 Smoothing Plane
The most versatile bench plane. The No. 4 has a medium sole (around 9–10 inches) and is ideal for smoothing faces and cleaning up surfaces before finishing. If you're only buying one bench plane, start here. Set it for a fine shaving and it will leave a glass-smooth surface that sandpaper can't replicate.
No. 5 Jack Plane
Longer at around 14–15 inches, the jack plane is the workhorse of rough dimensioning. With a slightly cambered iron it removes material quickly. Use it to flatten rough-sawn boards before moving to a smoother or jointer plane.
No. 7 or No. 8 Jointer Plane
At 22–24 inches, the jointer plane bridges low spots on long boards. It's the tool for getting a dead-flat edge for glue joints. If you're building panels or tabletops, a jointer plane is worth the investment.
The Block Plane
The block plane is a one-handed tool, typically 6–7 inches long. It excels at trimming end grain, breaking sharp edges (chamfering), fitting joints, and small trimming tasks at the bench. A low-angle block plane (12° bed angle) is especially effective on end grain. This is the second plane most beginners should own.
Specialty Planes Worth Knowing
| Plane Type | Primary Use | When You Need It |
|---|---|---|
| Shoulder Plane | Trimming tenon shoulders and rabbets | When fitting mortise-and-tenon joints |
| Router Plane | Flattening dadoes and grooves | Cutting housing joints to consistent depth |
| Rebate/Rabbet Plane | Cutting rabbets along edges | Frame and panel work, drawer fitting |
| Spokeshave | Shaping curved surfaces | Chair legs, curved rails, shaped edges |
New vs. Vintage Planes
Vintage Stanley and Record planes (pre-1960s) are widely available at flea markets and online and often outperform budget new planes. However, they typically need flattening the sole, lapping the frog, and sharpening the iron before use. Modern premium planes from makers like Lie-Nielsen or Veritas come ready to use out of the box but carry a significant price premium.
For most beginners, a mid-range new plane or a well-tuned vintage plane offers the best value.
The One Thing That Matters Most
No plane — regardless of brand or price — will perform well with a dull iron. Learning to sharpen your plane blade on waterstones or diamond plates is the single most impactful skill you can develop. A sharp plane glides effortlessly and produces fine, curling shavings. A dull one tears and chops. Invest time in sharpening and every plane you own will reward you.
Starter Recommendation
- Start with a No. 4 smoothing plane for general surface work.
- Add a low-angle block plane for end grain and edge trimming.
- Build from there based on the joinery you tackle most often.